Recreating the Runway Part 01 - Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012

Last week, I shared with you my favorite outfits that went down the runway from the designers in Milan. This week, I present the most wearable looks from the Fall/Winter 2012-13 collections at Paris fashion week!

There is a stark contrast between the looks that can be seen at both fashion capitals. GQ's creative director, Jim Moore, and deputy editor, Michael Hainey, summarize the difference in terms of craftsmanship of suits, and the "business of style," as they were, in Milan, and the "artistry... a little more exuberance, and difference" of Paris. As Mr. Hainey and Mr. Moore expected, the Parisian designers were creative and artistic, either through their bold use of prints, uniqueness, or just more relaxed looks.

As much as I laud Parisian designers for thinking outside the proverbial box, fashion is still a business. Personally, as a shopper, I would not purchase complete outfits from several of the fashion houses. Consequently, it made it that much more difficult to pick outfits that would be wearable directly off the runway. For some of the looks, I had to cherry-pick individual pieces because what it was paired with would stand out in public, and not in a good way. Even so, here is part one of some of my favorite looks, or pieces that I would add to my closet, if I could afford them, that were sent down the runway and where I would wear them to.

Part 01: A Day At Work

When I think of Parisian menswear, two fashion houses that immediately come to mind are Yves Saint Laurent, and Hermes. Let us put it this way, I have luxurious and expensive taste, and I gravitate towards the more conservative, classy, and chic outfits. The two aforementioned designers fit all five points. Their collection for this Fall/Winter 2012-13 collection have more structured, traditional looks that are appropriate for the business office, such as suits, slim-fit trousers, sweaters and sweater vests, and clothes in more subdued color palettes (burgundy, black, white, gray). Here are my three favorite from them (Top: Both looks are by Hermes; Bottom: Yves Saint Laurent)

In particular, there were two pieces that I would add to my closet. The first is the sweater with the zipper and off-the side cut by Hermes that has leather patchwork and trimmings. That piece is still conservative, but it has those accents that make that sweater edgier than most pullovers.

The other piece is the sweater vest by Yves Saint Laurent. What makes this item innovative is that it has the buckle details on the sides. I always thought that sweater vests were not the most form-fitting. Those buckles resolve that.

Considering the majority of the looks that marched down the Jean Paul Gaultier runway presentation, this outfit stood out because it was one of the more tamed looks among a sea of over-the-top, statement pieces.

Black trousers, white shirt, necktie, sweater. All those items are staples in the traditional office uniform. If a suit jacket were used, this would have been meeting appropriate. By replacing it with a sweater, it transforms the look from formal to casual. If I was a model in this runway show, I would have asked the designer if I could have the sweater. Again, I loved how the traditional sweater was made edgy by replacing the v-neck with leather jacket details (the metal pelts, the zipper, the off-the-side seams, the notch lapels). I would wear this sweater over most anything!

As I mentioned earlier, not all outfits were completely wearable off the runway, as is the case with this Kris Van Assche look:

For one, I cannot stand wide-legged pants. In an era where most men are going for the tight-fitted pants, these types look baggy and add volume. Also, my personal preference is for the more tailored looks and these pants are too flowing for my taste. However, from this outfit, I would cherry-pick the striped shirt because of the innovative built-in tie belt. Again, I hate having the necktie sway from side-to-side whenever I walk and this shirt would finally keep it in place without having to pay for an expensive metal one. For me, that button-down is a must-have since I love neckties!

Stayed tuned tomorrow, Valentine's day, for it is about what would scream "Sexy!" and "My Soulmate!" on your date nights with that special someone!

Reviewing the Runway - Prada Fall/Winter 2012 Menswear Show - "Il Palazzo"

Label: Prada

Designer: Miuccia Prada

Fashion Week: Milan, Italy

Runway Show: Sunday, January 15

Stately! Majestic! Grandiose! This runway show, "Il Palazzo", by Prada was a spectacle that should not be missed by anyone! The 1920's Eastern European, military-inspired clothes characteristic of the powerful and wealthy, the setting, the models, and the A-list Hollywood actors (Willem Defoe, Tim Roth, Oscar winner Adrien Brody, and Oscar nominee Gary Oldman) were candy for the eyes! The fortissimo of the grand piano to cue the start of the show and carrying the main theme that played throughout, the two note "dun dun" from the synthesizers creating a jarring transition, and the electric shock-like sound effects were music to the ears. The soundtrack was enough to invoke the wide spectrum of emotions from rapture to despair to anger! It was cinematic and theatrical!

Although there were celebrities strutting down the opulent, red carpet catwalk, the main stars were the clothes! (Let's put it this way, I was too busy salivating at the outfits to even notice the celebrities that were wearing them!) Ms. Prada created a collection that are staples of the wealthy and powerful! There were luxurious outerwear, double-breasted pieces, suits, cummerbunds (now I want to own one), shorts. Although visually the vibe is 1920s, the fitted, tailored silhouettes bring the looks to 2012. For those with elitist tendencies, like me, or at least want to feel like you are part of the upper crust, these clothes are for you! This runway show video is for you!

With all the drama, excitement, and surprises on the catwalk, there was a reason why, according to Women's Wear Daily, this show was the talk of Milan Fashion Week! This video is a must see! Period!

Reviewing the Runway - Ermenegildo Zegna Autumn/Winter 2012-13 Menswear

Label: Ermenegildo Zegna

Designer: Gildo, Paolo, and Anna Zegna

Fashion Week: Milan, Italy

Runway Show: Saturday, January 14

If there is one thing that I've learned from watching many final runway presentations by the finalist designers on "Project Runway", one of the major critiques I frequently hear is whether or not the collection presented told a cohesive story through the different fabrics and looks. While watching the Autumn/Winter 2012-13 catwalk presentation by Ermenegildo Zegna, the first thing that came to mind was: "Corporate executive spending most of the week at meetings in Aspen before ending the trip with a vacation at a posh ski resort!"

After watching the presentation, I was inspired to tell the following, albeit underdeveloped, story:

"There once was a CEO who had a business meeting at a posh ski/conference resort in Aspen. From Monday to Thursday, his agenda was cluttered with business meetings. Showing that he was there for work and not a trip down the slopes, he wore slim-fitted, three-piece business suits in different patterns of plaid tailored from heavy fabrics. He even took along with him three-piece denim suits on the off-chance that he had enough break time to dine at one of the fine-dining restaurants.

To protect him from the bone-chilling cold, he wore a variety of outerwear, such as chunky knits, Fair Isle sweaters, even puffer jackets lined with cashmere details to add a luxurious texture and to make a statement that he is not just an average, non-self-indulgent vacationer!

At the end of the week, he wanted to relax in front of the fireplace and finally catch up on his style magazine readings, before heading home. He packed away his neck ties into one of his many weekend bags, and pulled out his high-necked shirts and turtlenecks and wore them under dress shirts and camel coats and boots. Instead of dark colors, they were in lighter shades of blue and white. The end."

All that came just by watching the various outfits walk down the hardwood catwalk. Of course, the set design (the projected snow-capped trees and fireplace), and the soundtrack of serene music mixed in with the occasional nature sounds consisting of gusting winds and the cracklings of burning embers, helped formulate the generic synopsis. But the bottom line is that if a person can immediately imagine a scenario, that could only mean that the clothes had a distinct point of view, and more important, all wearable!

If ever I made enough money and the necessity to shop for a fine-tailored Italian suit, my first stop would be an Ermenegildo Zegna boutique!

Reviewing the Runway - Dsquared2 Men Fall/Winter 2012-13

Label: Dsquared2

Designers: Dean and Dan Caten

Fashion Week: Milan, Italy

Runway Show: Tuesday, January 17

The bell rings! A man dressed in a fitted suit marches up the runway to Pink Floyd's rebel anthem, "Another Brick in the Wall"! As he reaches the start of the runway, two men in suits throw the curtains open to reveal a classroom! The man in the suit, who we can now presume is a teacher, takes his place at the front of the classroom replete with typical antics that one can expect from a rebellious group: Throwing wads of paper and planes at the teacher and across the room. Before the teacher can try to control the class, a rebellious student defiantly stands and begins strutting down the runway. We are treated to the first look of the collection and everything falls into place: the set, the music, the attitude! It is school all over again, but contrary to common misconceptions that school is drab and boring, this show was pure entertainment!

For anyone who has been in a classroom as a teacher, student, administrator, what was presented is, for some educators, an accurate representation of what actually goes on during instructional time: Paper plane throwing both at the teacher and across the room and, yes, even the students smoking. Many people would be able to relate to this show. Although I do not support smoking, especially since there were models smoking during the actual runway presentation, it just added to the entertainment factor!

In terms of the clothes, if I was still in the classroom and was making enough money to afford Dsquared2 clothes, I would be a new client! Mr. Dean and Mr. Dan Caten's collection exuded a collegiate vibe. If I were to summarize the collection, it would be the "24-Hour College Student Wardrobe!" There were jackets, sweats, parkas, mohair sweaters, backpacks, many a skinny jeans that a college student can put on for lecture. There were super skinny ties, argyle prints, blue, white, khaki pants, checked print shirts, cardigans, crew neck sweaters, essentially professorial staples that a student could put together to wear for their internships. Then there were the sharp-suited looks, the denim jacket, skinny black pants, that is perfect for a party! These were clothes that hip, cool, artsy students would have in their closet! In short, the outfits shown on the runway were looks that I would wear as a teacher in the classroom! These were clothes that caught my attention the minute the first official look came down the catwalk!

Overall, from the antics on the runway, to the clothes that were presented, it was a very entertaining show! How I could have seen it in person!

Patience... Saves Money!

Recently, I blogged about how I was shopping for a new messenger bag. It would be the perfect accessory to complement my new style. Because this was going to be my everyday work bag, I did extensive research and comparison shopping online before I came to a decision. Eventually, after weeks eyeing, browsing, and reading reviews, I was sold on this Leather Work Bag by Banana Republic:

Besides being forced to pare down the non-essential clutter from my nylon Targus backpack, I love this bag because it has enough storage space to house my notebooks, pens, wallet, calculator, cell phone, earphones, mouse, laptop adapters, etc. It also has a separate padded laptop compartment. When I first used this bag, I felt like a professional carrying this around instead of a backpack. It also did not hurt that it was made of pure leather!

However, what I loved most about this wish list item purchase was the amount of savings I made just by being patient.

When I need something, I usually just go ahead and make a purchase without much consideration for savings. This messenger bag retails for $228. Even though this item was a necessity, I was reluctant because I would be spending a large amount of money for just one item. I was able to postpone making the purchase until I could see the item for myself and try out the compartments in store.

The opportunity came when my friend Justin invited me on a shopping trip to South Coast Plaza. I had no intention to shop. However, on that particular weekend, Banana Republic was having a 25% off sale! In addition, because I lived relatively far away from Costa Mesa, I got a passport where select stores offer gifts and/or discounts for certain purchases. Banana Republic had a 10% off any regular priced item. With those discounts in mind, I relented! I knew I had to shop, and I did!

The resulting savings were considerable! The breakdown:

Original price: $228.00

Banana Republic Sale: $57.00

South Coast Plaza Passport Discount: $17.10

Final Sale Price with Tax: $165.83

Total Savings: $62.17

If I was impulsive and purchased my bag right away, I would have had to pay, including tax: $245.68!

By being patient and not immediately purchasing the bag, I saved myself $79.84! Now I know, when I make hefty purchases, I will take my time!

Simulating The Trending High-Waist

Ever since I grew accustomed to low-rise pants, I slowly tucked away to the inner recesses of my closets my regular-rise pants. However, today, I gave a black regular-rise, straight-leg cotton trouser by H&M another chance. I paired it with a skinny black tie, my grape woven button-down also by H&M, and my black skinny suspenders by Levis. The rationale for the revival: To simulate a high-waist look, which was "in" at at the Parisian runways (see the Fall/Winter 2012 Menswear collections of Lanvin, Rick Owens, Dior Homme) without actual high-waist pants.

Suspender looks tend to work better with elongated silhouettes created by cinched torsos resulting from high-waist trousers. Using low-rise pants makes creating this look difficult. On the other hand, regular-rise pants is a happy medium. The suspenders can pull the pants up enough above the natural waistline to create the high-waist figure without causing too much discomfort in the crotch area.

The result is the look above with compliments such as, "Fresh", "Professional", "Dapper" and "I like the outfit" being provided!

Recreating the Runway - Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2012

Prior to watching "Project Runway", or my style evolution, I knew nothing about so-called "Fashion Weeks." For an outsider in the fashion world, it would seem like an entertaining live-action theatrical performance where the models and the clothes they showcase take center stage. For the fashion industry insiders, the buyers from the retail chains, the designers from the fashion houses, the fashion journalists, it is more than just a show. It is, as portfolio.com describes, a high-stakes "business meeting."

What fashion outsiders do not know about fashion week is that this is when fashion houses and designers can get industry recognition. This important week is really a fashion house's sales pitch to try to get buyers from the retailers to purchase pieces from their collection to sell in stores. If the designer only sells in their own showroom, exposure is limited. By having items at major retail stores like Nordstrom or Bloomingdales, brand labels have more marketability and increased potential for sales.

Fashion week is also a way to get noticed. For the rookie designers, this week is where they can show their moxie for the media. By being published, their names and looks have the potential to be printed in major influential fashion and style magazines, thereby increasing their selling and brand power, which in the long-run affects their negotiating power in the board room with a major buyer.

Long story, short, fashion week is a big deal. It is an institution in its own right.

What I find fascinating about some runway shows is that there is a wide range of looks. Some shows tend to be dramatic, fanciful, avant-garde; other shows tend to have more prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) pieces. With the Fall/Winter 2012 Fashion Weeks in Milan and Paris occurring earlier last month, I culled through the GQ website's up-to-date reporting on the different catwalk shows in the two aforementioned fashion capitals. Because for us industry outsiders what really matters are the clothes that we can actually wear to different occasions without sticking out like a sore thumb, I screencapped the outfits that were the most wearable and organized them by when they would be appropriate to don on.

For this first installment, I focus on the tailoring and luxe taste that can be expected from Italian fashion. Here are the most wearable looks from Milan Fashion Week.

Important Occasion 01: The Business Meeting

When going to work and you are meeting with bosses, potential clients, or even an interview, it is important to look sharp and put together. It is important to look confident. What better way to exude that by a wearing tailored suit. Here are two looks, one single-breasted suit (Bottega Veneta, left), and one double-breasted (Burberry Prorsum, right) that will command attention in the conference room.

Important Occasion 02: A Casual Day At Work

When one thinks business casual, versions of this look by Costume National comes to mind:

It loses the tie and blazer that screams, "I'm an administrator," and replaces it with a crew neck sweater. What I love about this look is the subtle colorblocked details that adds hint of personality to the look.

If however you decide to do something different and come in just a little more dressed up, here is a casual work day outfit by Salvatore Ferragamo in which the pin-striped, double-breasted suit amps the level of professionalism.

The above two looks are appropriate for a casual work day in a corporate setting. Here is a look by Dsquared2 that would be fitting for a more artistic or laid-back work environment.

For those who like pieces that are recognizably winter (and those who dare to be casually stylish and luxe), here is a layered look, again by Costume National, consisting of double-breasted peacoat, two turtlenecks, and boots.

As for me, if I had the finances to recreate any business casual look from the Milan runway, it would be this look by Prada:

The turtleneck underneath the pinstriped dress shirt and the pinstriped pleated pants are nice tailored pieces by themselves. But what makes this look is the double-breasted vest and the cummerbund detail. It takes the look to a whole new level of sophistication not often seen in public. And being how cummerbunds are rarely seen in the workplace, it would be an accessory that would match my "conservative with an edge" style.

Important Occasion 03: The Weekend

It is the end of the work week, and it is your time to relax and go for the casual looks. Because these are the fall/winter collections, it is almost obligatory that the outfits contain seasonal staples such as long pants, denim, turtle necks, outerwear with shearling (real or faux) or leather (real or faux) to help protect you from the cold. Here are five stylish looks worth having:

(Top Row: John Varvatos, John Varvatos, Costume National; Bottom Row: Both looks are by Ermenegildo Zegna)

Important Occasion 04: The Collegiate Look

For those who are either in school or are going back to school, the Dsquared2 fashion show would have been for you. Their looks for this fall/winter season, catered to the hip and preppy. They had looks that are stylish, but with an academic vibe apropos for the college campus. Here are two standout looks:

Important Occasion 05: Date Night

When going out on a date, it is important to make a great first impression. One of the best ways to do that is to dress up and look your best. Here is a racy (leather pants), yet stylish suit by Bottega Veneta that will certainly make your date think that you might be a potential mate:

If you would rather be conservative, but stylish, here is a subdued look by Salvatore Ferragamo that is more luxe and classy:

Important Occasion 06: A Night Out With Friends

If you are going clubbing or having a night out with your friends, here are three stylish looks by Bottega Veneta, Costume National (top row, respectively), and Dsquared2 (bottom row), that are equal parts fun, tough, but fashionable.

Stay tuned next week when I blog about the wearable looks from Paris Fashion Week and where you can wear them at!