There is a stark contrast between the looks that can be seen at both fashion capitals. GQ's creative director, Jim Moore, and deputy editor, Michael Hainey, summarize the difference in terms of craftsmanship of suits, and the "business of style," as they were, in Milan, and the "artistry... a little more exuberance, and difference" of Paris. As Mr. Hainey and Mr. Moore expected, the Parisian designers were creative and artistic, either through their bold use of prints, uniqueness, or just more relaxed looks.
As much as I laud Parisian designers for thinking outside the proverbial box, fashion is still a business. Personally, as a shopper, I would not purchase complete outfits from several of the fashion houses. Consequently, it made it that much more difficult to pick outfits that would be wearable directly off the runway. For some of the looks, I had to cherry-pick individual pieces because what it was paired with would stand out in public, and not in a good way. Even so, here is part one of some of my favorite looks, or pieces that I would add to my closet, if I could afford them, that were sent down the runway and where I would wear them to.
Part 01: A Day At Work
When I think of Parisian menswear, two fashion houses that immediately come to mind are Yves Saint Laurent, and Hermes. Let us put it this way, I have luxurious and expensive taste, and I gravitate towards the more conservative, classy, and chic outfits. The two aforementioned designers fit all five points. Their collection for this Fall/Winter 2012-13 collection have more structured, traditional looks that are appropriate for the business office, such as suits, slim-fit trousers, sweaters and sweater vests, and clothes in more subdued color palettes (burgundy, black, white, gray). Here are my three favorite from them (Top: Both looks are by Hermes; Bottom: Yves Saint Laurent)
In particular, there were two pieces that I would add to my closet. The first is the sweater with the zipper and off-the side cut by Hermes that has leather patchwork and trimmings. That piece is still conservative, but it has those accents that make that sweater edgier than most pullovers.
The other piece is the sweater vest by Yves Saint Laurent. What makes this item innovative is that it has the buckle details on the sides. I always thought that sweater vests were not the most form-fitting. Those buckles resolve that.
Considering the majority of the looks that marched down the Jean Paul Gaultier runway presentation, this outfit stood out because it was one of the more tamed looks among a sea of over-the-top, statement pieces.
Black trousers, white shirt, necktie, sweater. All those items are staples in the traditional office uniform. If a suit jacket were used, this would have been meeting appropriate. By replacing it with a sweater, it transforms the look from formal to casual. If I was a model in this runway show, I would have asked the designer if I could have the sweater. Again, I loved how the traditional sweater was made edgy by replacing the v-neck with leather jacket details (the metal pelts, the zipper, the off-the-side seams, the notch lapels). I would wear this sweater over most anything!
As I mentioned earlier, not all outfits were completely wearable off the runway, as is the case with this Kris Van Assche look:
For one, I cannot stand wide-legged pants. In an era where most men are going for the tight-fitted pants, these types look baggy and add volume. Also, my personal preference is for the more tailored looks and these pants are too flowing for my taste. However, from this outfit, I would cherry-pick the striped shirt because of the innovative built-in tie belt. Again, I hate having the necktie sway from side-to-side whenever I walk and this shirt would finally keep it in place without having to pay for an expensive metal one. For me, that button-down is a must-have since I love neckties!
Stayed tuned tomorrow, Valentine's day, for it is about what would scream "Sexy!" and "My Soulmate!" on your date nights with that special someone!
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