Of all the blazers that I have been eyeing, this one is number one! It has the edgy details that appeals to me (from the asymmetric zipper closure, to zipper details reminiscent of a leather motorcycle jacket in a wool blend, to a short fit rarely seen in blazers). It can be dressed up or dressed down for whatever occasion. Because it looks unique compared to most blazers, I would not mind spending the $1640 plus tax , despite the fact that it is a blend and not pure wool!
However, IT IS NOT IN BLACK!! The only thing preventing me from ending my search for the ideal blazer is that fact that this blazer is in navy! It would not be as versatile compared to if it were in black. This jacket makes me go, "Why is this not available in BLACK!?"
Is it fully off my list? Not just yet. However, the quest lingers on... even if it means having to wait until the Fall/Winter 2012 collection.
This blazer falls under what I call, "What in the world where the designers thinking not having this in black!?" Hands down, this would have been a major contender for my ideal blazer! For one, I love the double-breasted look. There is something stately and regal about the look that screams expensive and worth the price (and befits my pompous and arrogant personality). It also does not hurt that it is currently trending and making a comeback as a suit separate or sports jacket. With this blazer, I also am a fan of the military, Napoleonic details provided by the asymmetric buttons and epaulets. I also love the short fit on this blazer that is typically seen in motorcycle jackets. These details add an edgy and non-traditional twist to a classic article of clothing. It is structured and conservative, with hints of toughness: An example of my "Conservative with an Edge" style aesthetic.
However, there are two main cons that make me reluctant to purchase. The first one being that it is only available in light gray. Although this blazer can be paired with most pants, the shirts, on the other hand, become an issue. It would be difficult to pair different colored shirts to place under the blazer, without having the outfit look like there is too much going on or trying too hard. Another problem is fitting. Because this is an online store item, it is unavailable in any Dolce & Gabbana boutiques. For me to want to spend that much money on one item, I need to be absolutely in love and I need to be able to touch it and readily take it with me. But that is not possible with this blazer.
Despite the cons, I am not ready just yet to cross this off my list. However, I am also not that convinced to want to meet the $1,295 ticket price.
Of all the D&G blazers that are/were in contention, this third blazer has the most potential. For one, it has a fashion-forward look. The blazer has enough waist suppression that it gives the wearer and obvious shape, instead of a traditional boxy look. Another point is that it contains one button, where traditionally blazers are either had two or three buttons. Also, it has a short fit, where the bottom of the blazer rests just slightly below the waist and not covering the pants pocket. As stylish as this sports coat is, this piece gets the most points because it is actually in black. This is a very difficult find especially in the Spring/Summer collections.
However, there are also cons to this blazer. For one, as already mentioned, this is a blazer that can only be purchased online and makes it difficult to fit before purchasing. The second downside is material. It is made of 91% wool and 1% silk, luxurious fabrics. However, the remaining 8% are synthetics (6% polyester, 2% elastane). It makes me think, "Is fabric composition worthy of the $835 ticket price?" The last con is how practical will this blazer be. My friend Camille noted that with texture and sheen and construction, it looks very formal that it might be difficult to dress down the piece.
Those are a lot of things to think about, but there are still other candidates in the wing... Stay tuned!
Two days ago, I posted a convertible blazer to waistcoat by D&G. Here is another unique D&G blazer that at one point was in contention for my ideal, go-to blazer.
As often mentioned, my style aesthetic is "Conservative With An Edge." Essentially, what that means is traditional, structured outfits styled in ways that add personality and attitude. This short-sleeved blazer did all that. Blazers all tend to be long-sleeved and full-length. This jacket defies most traditions by opting to go in a rarely, if ever, seen short-sleeves with a short fit (where the bottom of the coat goes slightly below the waist).
However, after getting over the style shock, reality hit me. This blazer, while edgy and unique, is not the most practical. It can only be worn with short-sleeved wovens or shirts or knits, and nothing with long sleeves (that is unless one want to roll their sleeves all the way up). This would not be as appropriate in business meeting or a conservative corporate work environment. This would get the most mileage on nights out or date night or partying with friends.
Ultimately, as much as I loved the inherently personality of this piece, pragmatism and utilitarianism won over style and attitude. Yes, it met the "Conservative with an Edge" and "material worth the price" criteria on my checklist. But, I'm looking for something that will get more use than just one night. So, if only I could afford more than one blazer, for now, I would have to cross this off my list.
(On a side note: It also failed the other two important points, as well: It is not available in D&G boutiques, only online, and it is in dark blue, not black.)
For this series of posts, I have been sharing with you potential contenders for my blazer. Yesterday, I showed you a high-fashion blazer by Ann Demeulemeester. Today, and for the next two posts, I will highlight for you jackets from the more youthful brand of the house of Dolce & Gabbana, D&G.
Although from the front it looks like any other blazer, it stands apart in several ways. First, it is 100% cotton. It is light enough to be able to use during summer months. Second, it has unique proportions and stylings. The blazer has a short fit, unlike most jackets of its kind. The sleeves are longer than the bottom of the sports coat itself. Third, it is surprisingly multipurpose. The sleeves actually have zippers.
The sleeves can be removed to convert the sports coat into a waistcoat (vest)! It is a 2-for-1 deal!
However, this blazer failed to meet two very important criteria! First, this item is not available in D&G boutiques. The Dolce & Gabbana corporation is set up in such a way that the items available on the website are exclusively available on the site and not in the stores. With that, again, it is difficult to see how well this blazer will fit me and if it is worth the $800 ticket. Second, and more important, it is NOT in black!
Oh well... It has appeal, but not enough to win me over...
In my previous post, I talked about what I was looking for in a stylish go-to blazer. After several weeks of extensive searching, several coats have come close to being purchased, but each had their own flaws that made me say, "Not just yet!" Here is the first of the bunch!
When I first posted this on my Facebook wall, one of my friends noted that this jacket was just my style. And she was right.
This jacket meets several of the criteria that my ideal blazer should have. First, it is made of a mostly cotton blend with elastane for stretch. Considering the price, the composition of the material was okay enough to justify the $1,292 price tag. Second, it fits my non-traditional aesthetic. It has the double-breasted look made unique and stylish with the Napoleonic details on the front with the asymmetric buttons. The details add edginess to what would have otherwise been just a boring structured and conservative look. More importantly, it met the deal-breaking criterion of being in black.
However, it failed to meet a very important criterion: It is not available to be fit in stores, at least in California! This jacket is available only through a European online retailer. One of the problems with shopping for blazers online is the fit. While it may look good on the model as shown on the website, it might not fit on me. If only this blazer were available in Los Angeles, this would still be a serious contender.
But we shall see. I might re-consider if this blazer gets a significant price reduction from the end-of-season sale the website usually undergoes. I refuse to pay full price for something that I might not be able to wear because of sizing issues. Thoughts?
Contrary to the words of high-end Italian designer Domenico Dolce of the eponymous label Dolce & Gabbana, "It's simple: Everyone should have a black blazer," I never had an interest to add the closet staple to my own wardrobe. Personally, I have never felt the need to use one. However, ever since I started working my two new positions as a part-time instructor at a community college and a retail sales associate, I relented. Now, I have been looking to add a stylish go-to black blazer/sports coat to my wardrobe.
Ever since I have had a style evolution, not once have I given a time of day to the blazer. However, after reading fashion magazines and seeing different runway stylings, it has become evident that they really are versatile wardrobe must-haves. Sports coats can be dressed up by wearing dress-pants, button-down shirt, and a tie for a business-casual look. Blazers can also be dressed down by pairing it with denim. Essentially, one blazer can be styled with other pieces in many different ways.
And so began the quest to find my ideal blazer! I had four main criteria:
It had to fit my "Conservative with an Edge" style aesthetic. Translation: Conservative enough to be worn in an office setting, but with details that make it non-traditional and unique.
The blazer MUST be available in store for a fitting.
The composition of the material MUST be directly proportional to the price.
It MUST be in black.
If I had to create an inspiration board for my ideal blazer, it would be a hybrid of the following looks:
The blazer would ideally have zippers and asymmetric details more commonly found in leather motorcycle jackets like this biker jacket in python nubuck suede by Gucci (image screencapped from the online Gucci boutique).
As I began my online window-shopping, it slowly started to dawn on me that my ideal blazer might not even exist. There were several pieces that caught my attention, but all had flaws that were making me reluctant to purchase them. Over the next couple of blog posts, I'll share with you what blazers nearly came close to being purchased! Stay tuned!
After a busy work schedule and working almost seven days a week, I have not been able to find time to update this blog. However, what I did not realize was that I have constantly been posting on Facebook about my fashion wishlist. Essentially, my Facebook wall became a mini-blog. Now with that, I'm going to share with you my thoughts, rants and raves that I share on my social networks. To start, I will talk about the posh luxuriousness of the House of Gucci!
Today, I visited the Gucci Boutique at South Coast Plaza for a little bit of retail therapy. Though I did not purchase anything spectacularly grand or, for that matter, pricey, I was able to have a little fun eyeing the menswear, and, in particular, the ready-to-wear made of exotic leather.
Of all the high-end fashion houses that I have been exposed to, Gucci is one of the brands that revel in and offer a variety of items crafted with the luxuriousness of alligator, crocodile, eel, and ostrich leather, the plushness of mink fur, and the raciness of the python and snakeskin leather! In addition to accessories made of the aforementioned materials, the leather jackets are also made of these unusual materials.
Even though I had no intentions of purchasing ready-to-wear jackets made of exotic skins (functionality, budget, and the important creepiness factor factored considerably in that decision), I figured I might as well see what they were like to have on.
The first item I tried was this washed leather jacket made of pure ostrich leather worth $11,300.
If you look carefully at the jacket, you will see "bumps". Those characteristic bumps are due to the large feathers of the ostrich. It felt like I was touching goosebumps. Wearing it felt like I was wearing any other leather jacket, except what I had on me was worth just as much as a car, a car that would get more mileage than this jacket would if ever I owned it.
When models are hired to wear outfits, it is the models job to not show how terrified they are if they are disturbed by the material of the outfit or what creature they have to pose with. Although I have a phobia of snakes, I compartmentalized my fear and donned the following:
This is a $12,200 safari jacket made of python skin! Although, again, it felt like any other leather jacket I've tried, the thought of having a dead snake on me made me feel slimy. I cringed to my bone.
Despite it all, it was still fun to play model, albeit for ten minutes!
No matter what the medium, in general, two of the best ways to hook the audience is to deliver an in-your-face statement that incites some form of emotion within a person, and to surprise the attendees in some form. Through the first five looks sent down the catwalk, Mr. Jean-Paul Gaultier's mostly tough and edgy street wear balanced by hints of casual tailoring Autumn/Winter 2012-13 menswear collection, managed to do both. He hooked the audience through the use of "statement-inducing" prints and innovative accessories!
After watching the presentation, two moments were memorable and it was not because of the garish prints, but it was due to the unexpected details added to certain accessories. The second look presented was this brick-print sweater in orange-brown hues with a black leather vest and corduroy pants in dark brown accented with a scarf and leather gloves. (All images are screencapped from GQ's website.)
If one looks closely at the photo, it should be noticeable that the model is missing a hand. This is because he his hiding it in a pocket, not on the pants... but in the scarf! Here is a closeup shot:
The scarf has two pockets to place your hands in in case your extremities get extremely cold. It is uncommon to see this feature on a scarf. It is definite attention-grabber!
The surprised was again followed up in the fourth outfit presented.
In this gray-colored brick-printed outfit, the model has a crossbody accessory tucked underneath the model's left arm. As the model posed, he took that piece and started to unfold it...
...to reveal a green raincoat of sorts.
A fun, and undoubtedly functional accessory that can add layers to protect one from the cold winter weather, but not be a bulky carry along. It was an added twist that few saw coming!
Alongside the surprises, as mentioned in a previous post, Mr. Gaultier opened the flood gates and inundated the collection with an eclectic display of prints, not limited to a brick wall (in both tints of orange, and in shades of gray), camouflage, and even Medusa-like prints, as seen in the following:
Therein lies the "statement." With such bold use of graphics, only men with the panache and bravado of a seasoned walker of the concrete, urban jungle can exude the confidence needed to wear the outfit and not have the outfit wear them. These clothes state that the man donning them has a tough personality, and would dare someone to incite an argument with them!
Although Mr. Gaultier ran the risk of going over-the-top through the unabashed use of prints, it was the mix of bold prints with something plain, neutral, and subdued that prevented the outfits from being a visual clutter. Here are several standout looks that manage to teeter-totter the line of cacophonous mess and wearable street style:
As much as I love designers who use print to add visual interest to clothing, there is a reason why "Less is more" is a style maxim. Too much of any print can quickly be seen as cheap, gaudy, and tacky. The collection benefited with the balance of solid-colored pieces, be it a bright orange,...
...brown,...
...deep, rich burgundy,...
...and shades of black, white, and gray.
And, of course, accents of leather will, when tastefully tailored, add sophistication to any look.
I am not a fan of prints. That does not necessarily preclude that I will hate on anything that is printed. In fact, with this collection, the print was well-incorporated. It was due to the daring use of prints to elicit a "statement," tempered by the innovation of two accessories, and solid-colored pieces, that I was entertained and captivated enough to forgive any misstep that may have gone down the runway...
Well, almost anything.
Though the collection was mostly comprised of prints, it was not the loud expression of print that had me disappointed. It was because of this look:
The model's neck is gone and it looks as if the model is trying his best to keep his head afloat to prevent from being swallowed by the zip sweater. In this look, contrary to the other outfits, it is the clothes that are wearing the model.
So I could not forgive all of the mistakes. One look out of many is still considerable though!
Not having heard of Rick Owens prior to this year, I was not sure what to expect when viewing his runway collection. However, upon seeing the first look to come marching down the catwalk, I knew I was going to see some unique clothing, for better (left, the first look of the show) or for worse (right) (All pictures were screencapped from www.gq.com.).
The look to the left was a high-waist drop crotch pants paired with a poplin shirt with enclosed buttons and a scarf, bib-like fold of the fabric. High-waist trousers are recently making a comeback, but the drop-crotch look still has yet to take footing. The architectural nature of the shirt is something unique, at least in American menswear. This was a look with an unexpected touch.
However, the look to the right, was just as unexpected in a, "Is that even wearable way?" The look above is, as www.gq.com notes, an "oversized, NASA-esque puffer coat" paired with a skirt with a sheen to it. With the unique proportions of the puffer jacket (proportions that practically swallow the model), paired with a man-skirt (an article of clothing that I never thought existed except as part of a costume or stage performance), that was without a doubt, an eyebrow-raising moment that definitely set the tone for my first contact with the clothes of Mr. Owens.
As the editors at the online retailer Mr. Porter notes, Rick Owens is a "top designer known for his rebellious look." True to the quote, Mr. Owens followed suit by delivering a collection that was a mix of tailored pieces with drapy skirts and dresses in his seemingly signature colors of black, white, and gray. An example of this rebellious look is the vest below.
Instead of being a traditional flat front tailored vest, it is a vest that had ruching, not typically seen in street wear. Even the high-waist pants with a drop-crotch are rebellious in-and-of itself. Only men that emanate a rough and tough, "I don't give a damn!" swagger can successfully wear those pants.
Although some of his pieces are unique, the portion of the show that had me salivating were the leather jackets! This was the first jacket that appeared:
Staying true to form, this jacket is as rebellious as the rest of his aesthetic: the cropped proportions, the asymmetric zipper, the scarf-like detail around the neck! It is unique and most definitely worth the hefty price one could expect to pay.
Here are other standout racer/leather jackets:
For those jackets, it was all about the details. The contrast-colored piping on the jackets added visual dimension, sleekness, and interest. What the two middle jackets lack in piping, they make up for with personality and uniqueness by having what I will call a built-in scarf. This is a detail rarely seen, if at all, in most leather jackets that are currently in retail!
As much as I laud Mr. Owens for being creative, unique, and rebellious, speaking as a shopper, there are several pieces that would make customers only shop for the jackets. When this look came down the runway, my gut reaction was, "undertaker."
The solid black with a faint glimmer of white was too depressing. The skirt did not help as well. Not many men would buy a skirt at a high-end price, unless they were a performer of some sort, or needed a costume. Expecting men to wear a skirt or dress is currently unrealistic, until gender-specific clothing are redefined.
If the objective of a runway presentation is to sell clothes, with these looks, I'm not sold.
One obvious fault with the picture on the left is the skirt. As for the middle and right looks, I am not as sold as a customer when even the model is lost through the coats. A fault that all three looks share, which lost me as a shopper, is the fact that the models walked like penguins when going down the catwalk. It is a pity when even the models themselves cannot walk in the clothes!
In the end, as much as I love a rebellious and edgy aesthetic, I am also grounded in reality. If I had all the money in the world and I could splurge, I would buy several of the shirts and vests with the ruching from Mr. Owens' collection. However, until that happens, I will stick with the worthwhile investments, the leather and racer jackets.
For the Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection, Mr. Van Assche focused on the theme of "Work." Staying true to his inspiration wall, the collection was filled with traditional "work uniform" pieces for all ranks of society, from the manual laborer to the corporate executive (mostly leaning towards the latter).
This season, Mr. Van Assche channeled the labor wear of a 1940s Eastern European and injected it with hints of punk and industrial elements (dark colors with only accents of color, buckling details, military boots). The result was a collection perfect for academic professionals or educators. There were, as www.gq.com noted, professorial staples like long cardigans (all images are from Kris Van Assche's website)...,
...and suited looks with blazers.
Although these are pieces that one might often see a faculty member on a university campus wear, Mr. Van Assche ensured to add edge to the looks. The long cardigans were belted with leather, not only to give some shape to the wearer, but to toughen the look. Some of the suited looks were paired, not with sleek black pants, but with wide-legged pants in blue or black to give a very relaxed look.
If I was still working as a teacher, hence making enough money to purchase items, I would add several pieces from this collection to my closet. It is not because they are office-appropriate staples, but it is because several of the pieces have details that add uniqueness to the clothes.
I would buy this striped dress shirt:
Although it might seem like any other dress shirt, the built-in tie bar is a functional twist to the piece.
Another piece I would purchase is this blazer:
It is the kimono wrap detail that makes this suit jacket unlike any other jacket! It is a unique way to add an accent of color and show some personality.
I have always been a fan of belted, cinched-waisted looks. This jacket would be worth the price:
What makes this piece edgier than most is that the traditional double-button closures are replaced with double belts. It is a non-conventional modernization to a classic staple.
Although, the collection was overall strong, there was one misstep that could have been edited out of the collection, as exemplified by this look:
In concurrence with the opinion from Women's Wear Daily, the dungaree was over-the-top. Although it is an item common in the blue collar work sphere, it is impractical in the retail world. Considering the prices that Mr. Van Assche's clothing retail for, it is almost unrealistic to sell the dungaree because not only might the price be steep, but it could easily be ruined if used for some form of contracting, construction, or carpentry job. For making a stylish statement in public, I would wear the piece, if it were fitted and tailored. However, in the context of the collection, it stands out.
My general sentiments for the entire collection can be summarized by the following: If the price is relatively right, my closet might have some Kris Van Assche pieces in July when this collection becomes available for purchase. Translation: It is a solid collection with several pieces worth buying!
