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Monday, March 12, 2012

Reviewing the Runway - Jean Paul Gaultier Men's Fall/Winter 2012-13

Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier
Fashion Week: Paris, France
Runway Show: Thursday, January 19


No matter what the medium, in general, two of the best ways to hook the audience is to deliver an in-your-face statement that incites some form of emotion within a person, and to surprise the attendees in some form. Through the first five looks sent down the catwalk, Mr. Jean-Paul Gaultier's mostly tough and edgy street wear balanced by hints of casual tailoring Autumn/Winter 2012-13 menswear collection, managed to do both. He hooked the audience through the use of "statement-inducing" prints and innovative accessories!

After watching the presentation, two moments were memorable and it was not because of the garish prints, but it was due to the unexpected details added to certain accessories. The second look presented was this brick-print sweater in orange-brown hues with a black leather vest and corduroy pants in dark brown accented with a scarf and leather gloves. (All images are screencapped from GQ's website.)


If one looks closely at the photo, it should be noticeable that the model is missing a hand. This is because he his hiding it in a pocket, not on the pants... but in the scarf! Here is a closeup shot:


The scarf has two pockets to place your hands in in case your extremities get extremely cold. It is uncommon to see this feature on a scarf. It is definite attention-grabber!

The surprised was again followed up in the fourth outfit presented.


In this gray-colored brick-printed outfit, the model has a crossbody accessory tucked underneath the model's left arm. As the model posed, he took that piece and started to unfold it...


...to reveal a green raincoat of sorts.


A fun, and undoubtedly functional accessory that can add layers to protect one from the cold winter weather, but not be a bulky carry along. It was an added twist that few saw coming!

Alongside the surprises, as mentioned in a previous post, Mr. Gaultier opened the flood gates and inundated the collection with an eclectic display of prints, not limited to a brick wall (in both tints of orange, and in shades of gray), camouflage, and even Medusa-like prints, as seen in the following:


Therein lies the "statement." With such bold use of graphics, only men with the panache and bravado of a seasoned walker of the concrete, urban jungle can exude the confidence needed to wear the outfit and not have the outfit wear them. These clothes state that the man donning them has a tough personality, and would dare someone to incite an argument with them!

Although Mr. Gaultier ran the risk of going over-the-top through the unabashed use of prints, it was the mix of bold prints with something plain, neutral, and subdued that prevented the outfits from being a visual clutter. Here are several standout looks that manage to teeter-totter the line of cacophonous mess and wearable street style:


As much as I love designers who use print to add visual interest to clothing, there is a reason why "Less is more" is a style maxim. Too much of any print can quickly be seen as cheap, gaudy, and tacky. The collection benefited with the balance of solid-colored pieces, be it a bright orange,...


...brown,...


...deep, rich burgundy,...


...and shades of black, white, and gray.


And, of course, accents of leather will, when tastefully tailored, add sophistication to any look.


I am not a fan of prints. That does not necessarily preclude that I will hate on anything that is printed. In fact, with this collection, the print was well-incorporated. It was due to the daring use of prints to elicit a "statement," tempered by the innovation of two accessories, and solid-colored pieces, that I was entertained and captivated enough to forgive any misstep that may have gone down the runway...

Well, almost anything.

Though the collection was mostly comprised of prints, it was not the loud expression of print that had me disappointed. It was because of this look:


The model's neck is gone and it looks as if the model is trying his best to keep his head afloat to prevent from being swallowed by the zip sweater. In this look, contrary to the other outfits, it is the clothes that are wearing the model.

So I could not forgive all of the mistakes. One look out of many is still considerable though!

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